轉售革命：牛仔布如何利用電子商務
Re-Sale Revolution: How Denim is Capitalizing on Re-Commerce
用過的。二手。節儉。喜愛。不管您怎麼說，轉售都成為大生意。
Used. Secondhand. Thrifted. Pre-loved. Whatever you call it, re-sale is becoming big business.
Kingpins的Erin Barajas參觀了她最喜歡的牛仔布Hideaways
品牌重新審視Twitter數據證明了這一點：二手電子零售商ThredUp表示，過去三年服裝轉售零售市場的增長不僅是零售市場的21倍，還與分析公司GlobalData進行了比較，得出其2019年的轉售量報告，但它的價值也有望從現在的240億美元增加一倍，到2023年達到510億美元。
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The proof is in the statistics: Not only has the clothing re-commerce market grown 21 times faster than its retail counterpart over the past three years, according to secondhand e-tailer ThredUp, which crunched the numbers with analytics firm GlobalData for its 2019 resale report, but it’s also poised to more than double in value from $24 billion today to $51 billion in 2023.
這一趨勢是由千禧一代和Z一代（即18至37歲的年輕人）推動的，他們購買二手服裝的速度是其他年齡組的2.5倍。 ThredUp發現，三分之一的Z一代將購買2019年二手的東西。
The trend is driven by millennials and Gen Z—which is to say, 18- to 37-year-olds—who are snapping up secondhand apparel 2.5 times faster than other age groups. One in three Gen Z-ers will buy something pre- owned in 2019, ThredUp found.
在這種環境中，最初被設計為工作服的牛仔布是成功的獨特定位。 “製作精良的牛仔布穿著很好，它能保持良好，並且隨著時間的推移變得越來越有趣，” Yerdle的首席執行官兼創始人安迪·魯賓（Andy Ruben）說。 ，巴塔哥尼亞和泰勒·史迪克。
It’s in this milieu that denim, which was first designed as workwear, is uniquely positioned for success. “Well-made denim wears well, it holds up well and it gets more interesting with time,” said Andy Ruben, CEO and founder of Yerdle, a California for-benefit company that creates white-label resale programs for brands such as Eileen Fisher, Patagonia and Taylor Stitch.
在大多數情況下，牛仔布轉售發生在ThredUp，Depop，Poshmark和RealReal在線和寄售精品店等第三方二手市場上。當然，也有例外，例如瑞典的Nudie Jeans，該公司除了提供終身免費的牛仔布維修外，還擁有一項回購計劃，該計劃將其重新使用的範圍廣泛化為經過清洗和修補的“二手貨”服裝。 Eileen Fisher的Renew，Patagonia的Worn Wear和Taylor Stitch的Restitch平台在其一般商品中提供了少量使用的牛仔布。 Levi Strauss在從一位收藏家那裡購買了65,000件檔案質量的牛仔褲後，於2017年在紐約和舊金山商店推出了其Authored Vintage系列，其中包括501、505和517等以前的原始款式。
For the most part, denim resale occurs in third-party secondhand marketplaces like ThredUp, Depop, Poshmark and The RealReal online and consignment boutiques. There are exceptions, of course, such as Sweden’s Nudie Jeans, which, in addition to offering free repairs on its denim for life, boasts a buy-back program that funnels into its Re-use range of cleaned and mended “pre-loved” garments. Eileen Fisher’s Renew, Patagonia’s Worn Wear and Taylor Stitch’s Restitch platforms offer lightly used denim as part of their general assortment. And Levi Strauss, after acquiring 65,000 pieces of archival-quality jeans from a collector, introduced in 2017 its Authorized Vintage collection of pre-worn original styles like the 501, 505 and 517 in its New York and San Francisco stores.
雖然轉售僅佔一小部分傳統零售商的底線-艾琳•費舍爾（Eileen Fisher）在8月告訴《華爾街日報》，二手產品佔其銷售額的1％，但這種情況可能會迅速改變。例如，Nudie Jeans在2018年看到其Re-use牛仔布的需求翻了一番。同年，它修理了55,173條牛仔褲，回收了10,557條，然後轉售了2,900條。由於輕微缺陷而無法剪裁的牛仔褲會變成水桶帽，短褲或補丁。
While resale accounts for just a sliver of traditional-retailer bottom lines—Eileen Fisher told the Wall Street Journal in August that used goods make up 1 percent of its sales—this may be changing quickly. Nudie Jeans, for instance, saw demand for its Re-use denim double in 2018. The same year, it repaired 55,173 pairs of jeans, reclaimed 10,557 and resold 2,900. Jeans that don’t make the cut because of minor defects are turned into bucket hats, shorts or patches.
Nudie Jeans可持續發展協調員Kevin Gelsi說：“轉售業務是對我們的產品承擔更大責任並驗證材料資源以最佳方式重複使用的理想方法。”
“The resale business is the perfect way of taking a wider responsibility for our products and verifying that the material resources are reused in the best possible way” said Kevin Gelsi, sustainability coordinator at Nudie Jeans.
專家說，的確，延長服裝的壽命是減少其對環境影響的最有效方法，甚至比回收再利用還要多，而回收通常需要另一輪投入。英國的“廢物與資源行動計劃”估計，將服裝的壽命延長三個月可以將其碳，廢物和水的足跡減少5％至10％。
Indeed, prolonging the life of a garment, experts said, is the most effective way to reduce its environmental impact, even more so than recycling, which typically requires another significant round of inputs. Britain’s Waste & Resources Action Program estimates that extending the life of a garment by just three months can slash its carbon, waste and water footprints by 5 percent to 10 percent.
但是，轉售也可以通過為品牌或零售商帶來更多收益來為品牌或零售商帶來財務利益。吉爾西說：“與一次銷售相比，賣出一兩次甚至更多次的服裝比線性的單次銷售模型的利潤要高得多。”
But resale can have financial benefits for the brand or retailer, too, by generating more bang for the buck. “Selling a garment twice or even more times, compared to selling it once, is a lot more profitable than the linear one-sale-per-garment model,” Gelsi said.
總部位於阿姆斯特丹的非營利組織Circle Economy的Circle Textiles計劃負責人Gwen Cunningham表示，提高品牌價值是另一個優勢，它可以幫助企業探索循環消費模式。
Boosting brand value is another plus, according to Gwen Cunning- ham, lead of the Circle Textiles program at Circle Economy, an Amsterdam-based nonprofit that helps businesses explore circular modes of consumption.
“擁有轉售模式本身就證明了該品牌的質量，耐用性，相關性和永恆性，”坎寧安說，他共同推動了Switching Gear，該項目旨在促進電子商務和租賃戰略的發展。 “如果做得好，那就是它可以傳達給消費者的強烈信息：‘我們的產品很漂亮，無論是二手產品還是二手產品，都具有價值和價值。”
“Having a resale model is, in itself, a testament to the quality, durability, relevance and timelessness of the brand,” said Cunningham, who co-helms Switching Gear, a project that promotes re-commerce and rental strategies. “And when done well, that is the strong message it can send to the consumer: ‘Our product is beautiful and has value and worth, whether new or used.’”
當品牌掌握自己的轉售計劃時，專業人士就會加起來。
The pros add up when brands take the reins of their own resale programs.
她說，回購計劃可以幫助建立長期合作關係，因為“曾經購買過產品的消費者受到激勵，一旦他們不再需要或不再想要自己的產品，就可以將其帶回去，從而重新與品牌互動。” 。 Nudie Jeans為客戶帶來了將舊牛仔褲換成新牛仔褲20％的優惠，而Patagonia則以禮品卡形式接受了接受商品的信用。 對於收到的每件物品，Eileen Fisher都會交付一張5美元的Renew Rewards卡，可以通過該品牌的網站或在實體店之一進行兌換。
Buy-back schemes can help broker long-term relationships, since a “consumer who has previously bought a product is incentivized to bring it back once they no longer need or want it for themselves and therefore re-engage with the brand,” she said. Nudie Jeans offers customers who bring in their old jeans 20 percent off a new pair, while Patagonia doles out credit for the goods it accepts in the form of a gift card. For every item it takes back, Eileen Fisher hands over a $5 Renew Rewards card that can be redeemed through the brand’s website or at one of its physical storefronts.
坎寧安說，電子商務甚至可能吸引新客戶使用“曾經是他們無法企及的”產品。 一個恰當的例子：巴塔哥尼亞的舊衣服價格下跌了大約一半。 在艾琳·費舍爾（Eileen Fisher），用過的Renew服裝的成本約為其全新服裝的四分之一。
Re-commerce might even draw new customers to products that were “once unattainable to them,” Cunningham said. Case in point: Worn Wear items at Patagonia have their prices slashed by around half. At Eileen Fisher, a used Renew garment costs roughly a quarter of its brand-new counterpart.
除新客戶外，轉售還可解鎖當前購物者的寶貴信息。 “與我們合作的品牌擁有所有這些客戶數據。”魯本說。 “因此，除了交易本身之外，還有大量的見識，例如對人們如何使用產品，何時回來或週期如何的理解。”
In addition to new customers, resale can unlock valuable information on current shoppers. “The brands that we work with own all of that customer data,” said Ruben. “And so there is a tremendous amount of insight beyond the transaction itself, like the understanding of how people are using the product, when they’re coming back or what the cycles are.”
儘管品牌和零售商曾表達過一個擔憂，那就是二級市場是否會吞噬現有的銷售額，但魯本說，他還沒有看到Yerdle的任何合作夥伴都能做到這一點。他說：“實際數據表明，他們傾向於以全新的方式發展業務，而不會給業務帶來風險。”他將對同類相食的恐懼與15年前對電子商務的類似大驚小怪進行了比較。在後一種情況下，緊握現狀意味著無法滿足客戶不斷變化的需求。
While one concern brands and retailers have voiced is whether the secondary market might eat into existing sales, Ruben said he hasn’t seen that happen with any of Yerdle’s partners. “What the actual data says is that they tend to grow their businesses in whole new ways that don’t put their business at risk,” he said. He compares fears around cannibalization to a similar fuss over e-commerce 15 years ago. Clinging to the status quo, in the latter case, meant not serving customers’ changing needs.
這並不是說沒有挑戰。 “特定的轉售模型可能完全適合某個品牌，產品或市場，不適合其他類似品牌，”坎寧安說，他正在通過Switching Gear開發轉售商業模型原型框架。 “設計正確的模型至關重要。”
That’s not to say there aren’t challenges. “A specific resale model may suit a certain brand, product or market perfectly and be an ill fit for an- other similar brand,” said Cunningham, who is developing a resale business-model archetypes framework through Switching Gear. “Designing the right model is critical.”
在涉及操作系統和基礎架構時，可伸縮性也是一個問題。 她說：“需要具備收集，清潔，分類，維修，洗衣，二手商品銷售等方面的能力。” “絕大多數品牌都在未知的領域中暢遊，他們需要建立新的最終使用或循環供應鏈。 這樣做將需要超出其現有能力的專業知識，以及強大的合作夥伴關係和協作。”
Scalability, too, is an issue, where operational systems and infrastructure are concerned. “There is a need for capacities in collection, cleaning, sorting, repair, laundry, secondhand merchandising and more,” she said. “The vast majority of brands are swimming in uncharted territory and they’ll need to build a new end-of-use or circular supply chain. Doing so will require expertise beyond their current means, as well as strong partnerships and collaborations.”
魯賓說，但牛仔布正與即將到來的客戶轉變完全契合，這意味著未能抓住轉售機會的品牌注定會為此感到遺憾。
But denim aligns perfectly with this oncoming customer shift, Ruben said, which means that brands that fail to seize the opportunities in resale are bound to regret it.
魯賓說：“如果不涉及品牌，他們將失去客戶。”
“If brands are not involved, they’re losing the customers,” Ruben said.
這件作品最初出現在《牛仔布可持續發展報告》的讓療法中。 單擊以了解當今的行業領導者如何管理牛仔布供應鏈中的進展和可持續性問題。
This piece originally appeared in Jean Therapy, the Denim Sustainability Report. Click to read how today’s industry leaders are managing the progress and problems of sustainability in the denim supply chain.
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